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Day 1 : de Reykjavík à la région des Westfjords

Voyages | Dimanche 14 Novembre 2021

Le départ pour Reykjavík s'annonçait intéressant: dès l'aéroport on nous a prévenus que les conditions météo étaient telles que notre vol serait surement retardé afin que le pilote cible la petite fenêtre entre deux tempêtes qui lui permettrait d'atterrir. Effectivement, une fois à destination nous avons du attendre 45 min que le vent se calme pour que le staff de l'aéroport viennent réceptionner passagers et valise. J'ai cru un moment que le pilote manœuvrait car je pouvais voir l'avion bouger par le hublot. C'était en réalité le vent qui soufflait si fort qu'il faisait bouger l'appareil! En regardant mon téléphone j'ai compris: des rafales à 71 km/h. Comme l'a dit Mick en sortant "on a l'impression d'être à l'intérieur d'un sèche-main".

Notre itinéraire

Reykholt

Nous avons réservé notre première nuit dans la ville de Reykholt car elle est située à proximité de plusieurs fermes, sources chaudes et autres merveilles volcaniques, et surtout elle se trouve sur le chemin qui nous mènera vers la région des Fjords de l'ouest. Notre première nuit fut fantastique: première nuit de vacances, un silence absolu et surtout une obscurité totale jusqu'à 10h du matin. L'air de rien, ça aide trouver un sommeil réparateur. Notre petit-déjeuner dans le ventre, nous sommes partis en direction de la ferme.

Ils n'ont pas l'air d'avoir froid ces moutons Hae!

Il faut savoir que le mois de Novembre est considéré comme la saison d'hiver en Islande, et pendant cette saison, beaucoup de commerces sont fermés. Nous avons donc simplement dit bonjour de loin aux moutons à poils longs, et nous nous sommes remis en route direction la crèmerie d'Erpsstaðir. Cette crèmerie propose d'excellents produits à base de lait de vache: toutes sortes de fromages, des glaces artisanales (dont une parfum réglisse et une parfum baies sauvages que nous avons testées - à tomber). On vous donnera des nouvelles du fromage à raclette Islandais une fois rentrés chez nous.

En route pour les Westfjords! Elles avaient toutes très envie d'être sur la photo

Búðardalur et les sources chaudes de Guðrúnarlaug

Nous avons continué notre périple et nous sommes arrêtés pour manger dans un petit village de pêcheurs du nom de Búðardalur. Au menu, fish & chips ou soupe de poisson (les cartes des restaurants sont réduites en hiver également et on comprendra par la suite que ces deux plats constituent 90% des menus proposés hors saison). J'ai pris la soupe et je me suis régalée, même si elle manquait quand même de rouille à mon goût... Un fois rassasiés nous sommes repartis en direction du Nord pour une halte relaxante dans les sources chaudes de Guðrúnarlaug.

Dream baignoire

Nous avions déjà goûté aux plaisirs des sources chaudes lors de notre précédent voyage en Islande (dans le Sud de l'Islande) et nous comptions bien remettre ça. Même si la perspective de se mettre en maillot par 8° n'est pas toujours chose facile, une fois dans le bain - idéalement seuls et perdus en pleine nature - on se sent divinement bien. A noter également que les Islandais construisent généralement des petites cabanes en bois à proximité des sources, pour qu'on puisse se changer à l'abris du vent (et de la neige, comme nous le découvriront).

La tempête de neige sur la route des fjords

Notre périple en direction des Westfjords comprenait encore une étape avant notre première nuit à Ísafjörður. Nous nous sommes arrêtés une petite heure dans la ville de Hólmavík car j'y avais repéré un musée des plus étranges: le musée Islandais de la sorcellerie. La petite exposition y expliquait que dans les années 1600, tout ce qui s'apparentait à de la sorcellerie (ne serait-ce que posséder un livre d'incantation ou bien parfois simplement maudire quelqu'un, si par malchance cette personne tombait malade par la suite) était puni par un procès et parfois par un bûcher! Fait notable: la sorcellerie Islandaise n'était pas l'apanage des femmes! Sur toutes les personnes qui auront été envoyées au bûcher on n'en compte qu'une seule. L'Islande est donc un pays de sorciers.

Fort de ces nouvelles connaissances du folklore Islandais, nous sommes repartis de nuit en direction d'Ísafjörður. Si vous souhaitez faire un périple similaire en cette période de l'année, je vous conseille fortement de consulter très régulièrement le site Islandais de l'état des routes. La météo changeant toutes les 10 minutes couplée aux températures très basses de cette période de l'année peuvent rapidement transformer une route sure en une patinoire. Mieux vaut savoir dans quoi on s'engage. A noter également que toutes les routes ne sont pas ouvertes ou entretenues pendant l'hiver. Ce qui peut rallonger votre itinéraire si vous n'êtes pas préparés. Nous avons l'habitude de conduire sur des routes de montagne enneigées, mais en Islande c'est le niveau au dessus (en particulier quand il fait nuit et qu'il n'y a aucune lumière sur les routes).

Une fois à Ísafjörður on pouvait deviner les montagnes qui entourent la ville. Mais ce n'est qu'à notre réveil le lendemain matin que nous avons pu admirer l'ampleur de celles-ci. C'est peut être là notre seul regret: avoir conduit de nuit dans cette partie des fjords ne nous a permis que de deviner les reliefs dans l'obscurité. Mais compte tenu du fait qu'il ne fait jour que de 10h du matin à 18h, il nous aurait fallu beaucoup plus de jours sur place pour pouvoir tout faire en journée.

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Thanks for this detailed itinerary! Reykholt's absolute silence and darkness until 10 a.m. sound like a unique and peaceful start to your vacation.

TREE SURGERY TOWCESTER | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

Interesting, thanks for sharing your adventurous journey to Reykjavík! The weather challenges added a thrilling element to your travel tale.

ROOFING CROFTON | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

Incredible adventure! The weather challenges added an exciting element to the journey.

ROOFING HITCHIN | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

Thanks for the vivid description of waking up in Ísafjörður and realizing the scale of the surrounding mountains. The regret of driving through the fjords at night highlights the time constraints imposed by the limited daylight hours in winter.

ROOFING DAVENTRY | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

The caution about checking Icelandic road conditions regularly during winter, given the changing weather and low temperatures, is a valuable tip for anyone planning a similar trip. Safety first!

ROOFING SANDY | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

Thanks for sharing the adventure to the Icelandic Witchcraft Museum in Hólmavík. The insight into the history of witchcraft trials in the 1600s in Iceland is fascinating and adds cultural depth to the journey.

ROOFING SHORTSTOWN | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

Appreciate the insight into planning a trip to Reykholt during the winter season, considering the closure of many businesses. The quiet night and total darkness until 10 a.m. sound like a unique and restful experience.

ROOFING KEMPSTON | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

It's helpful to know about the limited menu options in small fishing villages during the winter season, like the prevalence of fish & chips or fish soup. The personal touch, wanting more rustiness in the soup, adds a relatable touch.

ROOFING NEWPORT PAGNELL | Mercredi 15 Novembre 2023

The note about November being considered the winter season in Iceland, with many businesses closed, provides crucial information for planning a trip during this time, setting realistic expectations.

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The itinerary breakdown, starting with Reykholt, offers a practical guide for travelers interested in exploring farms, hot springs, and volcanic wonders in the region.

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Thanks for sharing your awesome experience in that beautiful place.

ROOFING REPAIR GILTBROOK | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

Night driving to Ísafjörður amidst changing weather conditions and low temperatures sounds like an adventure. Regularly checking the Icelandic road conditions site is a smart tip.

ROOFING REPAIR ILKESTON | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

Iceland's winter roads turning into ice rinks due to changing weather every 10 minutes adds an extra layer of challenge. Driving on snowy mountain roads in Iceland seems next level!

ROOFING REPAIR STAPLEFORD | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

Winter in Iceland sure brings its own set of challenges, but the journey through Reykholt, Búðardalur, and Hólmavík paints a vivid picture of the country's diverse landscapes and unique experiences.

ROOFING PONTEFRACT | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

Driving through snowstorms on fjord roads must have been an adventure! Your advice on checking road conditions is valuable for anyone planning a winter journey in Iceland.

ROOFING HATFIELD | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

The nighttime drive to Ísafjörður adds an element of mystery to the journey. The anticipation of waking up to the majestic mountains surrounding the town builds excitement.

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It's a unique perspective to drive through fjords at night, even if it means missing the details. The limited daylight hours in winter add a challenge to exploring Iceland's scenic landscapes.

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Thanks for the heads-up on the limited daylight hours and the need to adapt to Icelandic road conditions. Your insights make it easier for others planning a similar winter trip.

ROOFING GAINSBOROUGH | Mardi 14 Novembre 2023

The regret of not seeing the fjord reliefs at night is understandable, but the overall experience of your Icelandic adventure is captivating. Looking forward to more updates from your journey!

TREE SURGERY WYMONDHAM | Jeudi 9 Novembre 2023

Your experience in the hot springs amidst the snowstorm sounds incredibly surreal.

TREE SURGERY NORWICH | Jeudi 9 Novembre 2023

our description of the remote hot springs and the Icelandic winter road conditions paints a vivid picture of your trip.

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Thanks for taking us on your journey! Your encounter with Icelandic folklore and the dramatic fjord landscapes is both educational and captivating.

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How to go from Reykjavik to the Westfjords?

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Voyager de Reykjavík aux Westfjords offre un voyage à couper le souffle à travers les paysages accidentés de l'Islande, où des fjords majestueux, des cascades en cascade et des villages pittoresques attendent d'être explorés.

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En poursuivant votre périple vers les Westfjords, vous avez fait une halte à Hólmavík pour visiter le musée Islandais de la sorcellerie. Vous avez découvert l'histoire fascinante de la chasse aux sorcières en Islande au XVIIe siècle, où la possession de livres d'incantation ou même une simple malédiction pouvait conduire à un procès et parfois à un bûcher. Vous avez également noté que la sorcellerie en Islande n'était pas exclusivement pratiquée par les femmes.

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